A Newport Escape
When The Gilded Age returned to HBO, with its lavish ballroom scenes and sweeping views of magnificent estates, it did more than entertain …it ignited a national interest in the history, families, and estates of the late 1800s. Inspired by the show’s glamour, I planned a weekend escape to experience this history firsthand, in America’s original playground for the real-life Gilded Age elite: Newport, Rhode Island.
NEWPORT is a study in coastal splendor, where the Atlantic unfurls in shades of steel and sapphire, sailboats dot the harbor, and the air is tinged with salt, and majestic mansions preside over manicured lawns. The quick two-and-a-half hour drive makes for the perfect weekend getaway.
The Vanderbilt: A Perfect Base
The Vanderbilt was built by Alfred Vanderbilt for his mistress, Agnes O’Brien Ruiz, at the turn of the Century. When she died, Alfred - famous himself for having later died while saving others during the sinking of the Lusitania - donated the house to the city of Newport. …The mansion was recently acquired by Auberge, and converted into a hotel, complete with a total refresh, restoring everything about the place to its former glory. Collections of fabulous art. Sumptuous time-appropriate decor and patterns. Rich hues, decadent fabrics, and opulent original woodwork, all make for the perfect backdrop to enjoy a true weekend of luxury.
We visited on an unusually chilly weekend, so we spent some extra time hanging-out in some of The Vanderbilt’s cozy spaces, which are draped in cashmere throws and layered with Persian carpets, and enjoying the crackling fireplaces. We also took advantage of the onsite spa, with amazing services and an indoor swimming pool.
Like the mansion itself, the food at The Vanderbilt is outstanding! …On the first night of our trip we had dinner at The Vanderbilt’s ‘The Dining Room’. Navy blue-cloaked walls and dapper leather club chairs, a roaring fireplace, and a wood-clad bar, make the space feel elevated and exclusive, but cozy and comfortable at the same time. The service is unparalleled. And after a delicious dinner and decadent dessert, the chef sent out a warm plate of assorted cookies as a treat to take back to the room and enjoy with some ice cold milk before bed. …So, during dessert that first night, we cancelled our plans to eat elsewhere on our second night, and made repeat reservations for another fabulous dinner at The Dining Room! …I never do that!
And The Vanderbilt’s rooftop bar is the ideal vantage point for sunset over the harbor, with a cocktail in hand.
The Vanderbilt has the vibe of a fancy private club and staying there feels like being a member.
It’s living like a Vanderbilt! Our stay was…Gilded!
Exploring Newport’s Treasures:
With The Vanderbilt as our home base, exploring Newport was a breeze!
The city once served as America’s summer capital of high society. It was the playground of the country’s wealthiest families. And that historical charm and character has been carefully tended and preserved.
The Mansions
The Preservation Society’s famed mansion tours provide an intimate look at the excesses of the late 19th century most evident in Newport. The Breakers, Marble House, and The Elms, offer glimpses of an impossibly lavish lifestyle, and craftsmanship and artistry of a bygone era.
The Breakers
The Breakers, Cornelius Vanderbilt’s 70-room Renaissance-style marvel overlooking the Atlantic, is probably the most impressive - though comparing the splendors of one mansion to the next is a slippery slope, as each mansion stands on its own like a piece of fine art.
The Breakers’ opulence and scale feel surreal. Guests marvel at the 60,000 square feet of marble imported from Italy, carved ceilings, carved mantels, frescoes, custom hardware, balconies, and other over-the-top features. The Great Hall is 2,500 square feet on its own and is a breathtaking spectacle. Upstairs in the Master Suite, the master bathtub is crafted from a solid block of marble and outfitted with four distinct taps, allowing for the choice of hot or cold freshwater or seawater.
Marble House
Just down the road from The Breakers, Marble House dazzles with its Beaux-Arts architecture and a history as dramatic as its interiors. …Its owner, Alva Vanderbilt, famously held suffragette rallies on the front lawn!
The home was constructed in 1892, with about $7 million spent on just marble - adjusted for inflation, that’s something like a quarter-of-a-billion in today’s dollars! And it doesn’t go unnoticed! Over 500,000 cubic feet of imported marble from France and Italy adorn almost every surface of the home. Columns, mantels, a sweeping staircase, marble floors, and large sculptures
…each more gorgeous than the last - and likely impossible to recreate today.
The Elms
The Elms Mansion was built by coal magnate Edward Julius Berwind, and is a refined Classical Revival that boasts Renaissance ceramics, French and Venetian paintings, and exquisite Oriental jades.
All three mansions were jaw-dropping and absolutely magnificent. They are amongst America’s true architectural treasures and at the top of the list of those that are open to the public.
…And recognizing some of the rooms in the mansions as sets used in The Gilded Age made the visits even more fun!
Beyond the Mansions
The Cliff Walk delivers a scenic interlude, with a winding path that balances architectural splendor with untamed coastal beauty.
Bowen’s Wharf is a fun stop for some shopping and seaside photos.
In town, explore the boutiques and galleries along Thames Street and take a walk down Bellevue Avenue to take in the mansion-lined boulevard.
For lunch, Brick Alley Pub is famous for its lobster rolls and clam chowder.
The White Horse Tavern is the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the United States, dating back to 1673.
The International Tennis Hall of Fame, with its pristine grass tennis courts and a museum on the history of tennis that’s second-to-none, is well worth the visit.