Inns of Aurora

A Mother/Daughter weekend
in Western New York

There are trips that feel like a simple change of scenery, and then there are trips that feel like a true pause.

My recent trip with my mom to the Inns of Aurora, on the shores of Cayuga Lake in the Finger Lakes, about a five hour drive from here, was just the rest and restoration we needed.

The village of Aurora looks like a picture postcard, frozen-in-time from the region’s halcyon days, when the nearby Erie Canal was at the center of American commerce. The entire village is listed in the National Register of Historic Places. Streets lined with historic brick homes, lots of greenspace, an adorable post office and white-washed clapboard churches, and spectacular views of Cayuga Lake and the surrounding Evergreen-blanketed Catskill mountains.

But while Aurora appears timeless, it’s actually a town that has evolved along with America’s fortunes…

Aurora’s history is closely tied to Wells College, founded in 1868 by Henry Wells - the Wells in Wells Fargo and the Founder of American Express - who lived in Aurora. In fact, Wells started American Express in order to provide loans to the farmers who were banking with Wells Fargo. He built an Inn about a block away from his residence so business people could come to meet with him. …And when it was time for his four daughters to gain a higher education - with nearby Cornell University still being all-male - he envisioned an all-female college which would provide a rigorous liberal arts education for his daughters and other women, and began construction of Wells College’s stunning lakeside campus only a few blocks from the Inn. For generations, Wells College shaped the intellectual and cultural fabric of Aurora, lending the town a quietly literary, reflective character. Wells College was late to turn co-ed in 2005 and, also suffering the regular financial exigencies of operating a small college in economically-depressed Western New York and the reality of a declining enrollment relating mostly to the national shift from liberal arts to professional education, Wells College closed in 2024.

…Enter Pleasant T. Rowland, the Founder of American Girl Doll - Wells College Class of ‘62 - who can now be credited with Aurora’s modern day revival and renaissance…

Rowland is best known as the Founder of American Girl Dolls. She was a teacher and journalist who believed that dolls could be more than toys, and noticed a gap in the market for toys with substance, narrative, and educational depth. With American Girl Dolls she created dolls that represented real girls from different moments in American history, each with her own family, values, challenges, and dreams. She built     American Girl Dolls into an influential and culturally resonant brand, and sold to Mattel in 1998 for $700M.

…In the ‘90s, when Wells College was calling for a financial lifeline from its wealthy alumnae, Rowland paid to have some of the buildings in Aurora converted into an Inn and donated to Wells College, in order to serve the College’s need for a place for parents to stay and be an attractive place for out-of-town visitors to come and enjoy the lake, and be a revenue generator for the College.

…In 2001, with the Inn failing and the College desperate for funds, Rowland again stepped-in and this time bought the Inn from the College - though the cash infusion provided was not enough to save Wells in the long-run - and then decided to undertake the gargantuan task of rescuing the entirety of Aurora’s historic architecture from decline, reviving the local economy, and creating a living model of how heritage, hospitality, education, and the arts can coexist and prosper.

Rowland also acquired the MacKenzie-Childs company, which has a corporate campus that looks more like a fabulous farming estate on a gorgeous hilltop about a half-mile down the road from the Inn. She turned the fortunes of the company around and sold to a private equity investor - ensuring that the property would be utilized, maintained, and vibrant. …And MacKenzie-Childs is open for public visits! Well worth a few hours, the factory is an exuberant world of pattern, color, and craft, and touring the grounds feels like stepping inside the brand’s imagination - with whimsical gardens, a dramatic barn-turned-showroom, artisans hand-painting ceramics, and displays that celebrate maximalist joy.

Through the Aurora Foundation, Rowland spearheaded an ambitious multi-decade town-wide restoration effort, purchasing, rehabilitating, and repurposing historic homes, academic buildings, and civic landmarks throughout the village. What might have become forgotten relics instead became vibrant, reimagined spaces,  cultural venues, dining destinations, and community hubs, all carefully restored with architectural integrity and aesthetic sensitivity. Investments included educational initiatives and partnerships with arts organizations. Rather than building something flashy or disruptive, Rowland chose a quieter, more enduring path of stewardship over spectacle. The result is a village that feels both preserved and alive, rooted in history yet relevant to modern travelers.

The Inns of Aurora is a collection of a dozen or so old historic estates, gracious homes, and academic buildings…

…All the buildings share a design language and sensibility that feels elevated and warm, thoughtful and playful, layered and refined. Collected antiques. Tailored upholstery. Contemporary art. Crisp linens. Rich fabrics. Lots of texture. Marble baths. Spaces that feel curated rather than staged, inviting rather than intimidating. Classic Americana, interpreted through a discerning Modern eye. …And there’s a sense of intention behind every detail and Rowland’s vision is evident everywhere. Her quiet stewardship. Her integration of art, wellness, education, and gracious hospitality. Preservation over replacement. Comfort without excess.

…While each of the properties has its own personality…

The Aurora Inn, built in 1833 by E.B. Morgan - co-Founder of The New York Times, stands proudly on Main Street, anchoring the town with classic Federal-style elegance.

E.B. Morgan House leans into Italianate grandeur, with sweeping lake views and stately proportions.

Rowland House, once a private estate, carries a more playful spirit - punctuated by MacKenzie-Childs flourishes and a sense of eclectic charm.

Wallcourt Hall, formerly a Wells College dormitory, is layered with books, art, and bold patterns, and offers a cozy collegiate feel.

…And the Spa at the Inns of Aurora - designed by the noted Hart Howerton Architecture firm and opened in 2020 - is world class!  The Spa offers a full-day immersion, built around hydrotherapy, nature, stillness, and restoration, and the Spa has already earned the prestigious WELL Gold Certification, reflecting a holistic commitment to health, sustainability, and thoughtful design.

With Cayuga Lake stretching wide and glassy below the resort’s rolling 350 acres, there’s a daily rhythm to the property that encourages lingering. Gardens and fields stretch outward in calming greens and golds. Fireplaces crackle in common rooms and a firepit at each house is kept burning - and equipped with complimentary s’mores kits as a sweet touch each evening. Libraries invite quiet reading. Porches with Adirondack chairs face the view of the lake  and beyond, practically insisting on a pause.

It would be fair to say my mom and I ‘dove’ right in for the full Spa experience! The Spa has the most well thought-out hot and cold pools, steam rooms, saunas, and plunge baths - all integrated in a way that feels ancient and intuitive. Outdoor pools, with steam aglow on colder nights, are neatly integrated with the landscape.

Treatment rooms with dormered ceilings and window benches host an array of therapies, and we were particularly impressed with the quality of the therapists. Deeply restorative massages, facials, and body rituals are inspired by global wellness traditions. Quiet lounges encourage reflection. A light-filled café offers nourishing healthy fare. And woven throughout the space is another museum-quality art collection, featuring works by artists such as Helen Frankenthaler, Alex Katz, and David Hockney - not as decoration, but as an integrated part of the sensory experience.

I particularly enjoyed the Manuka honey moisture drench and the deep tissue massage. I drifted off to the sound of birds chirping and water moving on the balcony of the relaxation room, overlooking the lake in my bathrobe and slippers. I felt like I was in some kind of a dreamlike state.

The Finger Lakes region offers all kinds of outstanding scenic drives and hiking trails, an appellation-full of wineries to go tasting, waterfalls and hidden swimming holes around every bend, cute towns chock full of antique shops and charming boutiques, and a number of interesting historic sites. The 100-mile ride around Cayuga Lake can be its own form of therapy, and the Finger Lakes National Forest is only an hour away from Aurora.

My mom and I took one afternoon to go meet my mom’s friend Jeri, who lives in Gilbertsville, for lunch in Ithaca, and then for the three of us to go walk the gorge trail - with 19 waterfalls in one-and-a-half miles - in Watkins Glen State Park.

The 1833 Kitchen & Bar is the elevated and rather refined option. The restaurant is like a fancy clubhouse, with lots of rich mahogany and a large deck with the boss-view of the lake. Courses including fresh vegetables, beautifully prepared fish, seasonal pastas, and desserts are all quite indulgent without being at all heavy. The duck breast and mushroom risotto were particular favorites.

The Fargo Bar & Grill offers more casual fare, with the full feeling of a smalltown bar. Burgers and comfort food, delicious rootbeer floats, and of course… brews.

A village market, that felt more like a farmstand, filled in the gaps when we wanted to pick up something light in between meals.

Our mother–daughter stay at the Inns of Aurora was a really sweet experience. We shared slow mornings, long conversations, a couple of great walks along the lake, and even took a row boat out on the lake together. It felt indulgent and highfalutin…and yet grounding and restorative at the same time.

I must reveal that I was something of an American Girl fanatic as a young girl. I used to read my dolls’ stories to my mom while playing with the dolls and imagining what life must have been like for them. Molly McEntire from WWII and Samantha Parkington from the Victorian era were two of my favorites. …And that American Girl connection with the Inns of Aurora definitely added an extra dash of magic to the excursion. In many ways, visiting Aurora is like stepping into the life of one of Rowland’s dolls, or at least into Rowland’s imagination.

…So it was an extra-special surprise and treat when we arrived at the Inns of Aurora to find out that Pleasant Rowland was actually also staying there and hosting her own annual family reunion on the same days we were at the resort! We got to meet her, however briefly, and I got the chance to tell her how she’d influenced my life, and how impressed we were with everything she’s done in Aurora!

We’ve already planned a return to the Inns of Aurora for 2026 but - because my mom couldn’t stop talking about what a good time we had with anyone who would listen - this time around it’s going to include a few of our mother/daughter friends!

…But it’s certainly NOT for women only! Truth be told, rowing on the lake, or sitting by the campfire watching the sunsets, or enjoying the many co-ed parts of the spa, would be incredibly romantic.

…The Inns of Aurora is the perfect getaway for any occasion you want to make special!

I’ve even put the Inns of Aurora on my radar screen as a potential wedding venue, and my mom is saying it’s where she wants to host a large family reunion she’s planning for 2027. They have plenty of lodging and catering capacity, there’s a lot to do, and the setting can’t be beat.